Most international flights into Nairobi come through Addis, Doha, Dubai, or Amsterdam, which means by the time you clear JKIA customs and collect your bags you’ve been in transit for a while. Here’s what to set up in the first 48 hours, in order of priority.
Order groceries to be delivered
Since COVID-19, delivery has become much easier in Nairobi and this includes groceries. Honestly, nowadays I mostly order my groceries delivered since I get so overwhelmed by in-person grocery shopping and I hate waiting in queues. Conveniently for new arrivals to Nairobi, grocery delivery doesn’t require local cash or M-Pesa since all the main apps take credit cards. The most straightforward is the Carrefour app (MAF Carrefour), which has good coverage across Nairobi and a wide enough range that you can stock a kitchen without much effort. If you want better quality produce, Greenspoon is worth it (a bit pricier, but genuinely good). Naivas also delivers now, though I haven’t tried their delivery service personally yet. Just download their apps on the app store, add your credit card and you can deliver!
Get a Safaricom SIM card
If you’re only here for a few days, an e-SIM through Airalo gets you data without queuing, though it gets expensive fast in Kenya for some reason. For anything longer than a week, just go to a Safaricom shop and get a physical SIM. The cost is low, and it gives you access to M-Pesa, which is the mobile payment system that runs basically everything in Kenya: paying rent, splitting a bill at a restaurant, buying curios at a local vendor, etc.
Bring your passport since you can’t get a SIM without it.
RE: which branch to go to: the Junction Mall and Yaya Centre Safaricom shops regularly have super long queues out the door. The one I always recommend is inside Lavington Mall (Lavington Green), which I think consistently has the shortest wait. Go during the workday, not at 5pm.
Getting around
Uber is ubiquitous here, affordable, and you can pay by credit card, so download it before you land and you’re set. Bolt also works and is useful as a backup when Uber surges. The drivers I talk to tend to prefer Uber (the pay is marginally better they say), but both are fine.
Worth knowing: Uber fares in Kenya are low, and what the platform pays drivers alone isn’t much. If someone drives you well, tip them.
If you’d rather have a fixed price and a driver holding your name when you land, there are companies that do pre-booked airport transfers well. If you’re comfortable with Uber, just use Uber. But for a first arrival, a driver holding your name is a genuinely better start.
Quick answers
Do I need M-Pesa right away?
Not immediately. Uber and the grocery apps take credit cards, so you can manage the first day without it. But you’ll want to get a SIM early to be able to use data on the go and register for M-Pesa while you’re at the Safaricom shop.
Can I get a Safaricom SIM at the airport?
Yes, there are kiosks at JKIA arrivals. The lines can be long and the experience isn’t always smooth (and you’ll probably be SO tired). I recommend going to Lavington Mall during the workday.
Do I need Kenyan shillings when I arrive?
While it’s helpful to have a bit of cash (there are ATMs at the airport that you can use), you can get further than you’d expect without cash. Uber, grocery delivery, and most larger restaurants and cafes all take credit cards. You’ll want shillings for markets and street food eventually, but it’s not urgent on day one.
Places open and close in Westlands faster than anywhere else in Nairobi, which is partly what makes it the city’s most interesting food neighbourhood. This is my current list, updated June 2026; I’ve eaten at most of these personally but have notated the ones I haven’t.
My new favorite in Westlands. The space reminds me more of Cape Town than Nairobi, which is either a selling point or a heads-up depending on where you stand on that aesthetic. The restaurant is tucked away on Maua Close, off the main Westlands strip and doesn’t even have a sign.
Unmarked entrance to Beit e Selam
Their most famous starter is the corn ribs, and they definitely earn the reputation. I’ve also had the creole rock cod, which comes with a papaya salad I liked more than I expected to. The lamb burger gets consistently strong reviews from everyone I know who’s been.
Skip the dessert menu; it’s the weakest part of the meal. A scoop of ice cream if you want something sweet at the end, but leave it there.
Their lunch offer includes one starter, one main, one dessert, and a drink for KES 3,650 as of June 2026. Closed Sundays.
About Thyme has been in Westlands since 2005 and they haven’t let their quality drop. The food is delicious, the space is well-kept, and they have live music on certain days of the week. Check their website at about-thyme.com for the current schedule before you go.
It’s not cheap, but it’s not pretending to be something it isn’t. This is a proper sit-down meal: the kind of place you take someone you want to impress, or book for a birthday when you want to get it right. Set in a multi-level garden off Eldama Ravine Road, it’s worth booking ahead. Closed Mondays.
My favourite Indian restaurant in Nairobi. I have tried others but keep coming back here, especially when we have out of town guests. Prices are on the higher end for an Indian restaurant in Nairobi, but the quality reflects it. Located on Parklands Road, opposite The Mall.
I think the original branch in CBD gives a more authentic experience but for visitors who are only in Nairobi for a short time and who might not make it to CBD, I’d send them to this K’Osewe branch so they at least get to taste some Kenyan food (samaki na brown ugali is my go to). This branch has beautiful deco and so it’s also great for a group dinner.
When we want to take the kids somewhere easy and not stretch the budget, Hashmi is where we end up. It’s always full, so go ready to wait a bit to be seated, but it’s reliably good. Indian BBQ: chicken tikka, kebabs, fresh naan, rich curries. If they have it available, get the tangerine juice. It’s a staple at Hashmi and people come back for it. More affordable than Open House; a solid family dinner without the bill shock.
Off Muridi Road, on the ground floor of a quiet mall you would drive past without thinking twice. Baladi does Syrian food, and they do it properly. The falafel shawarma is what I always order. Their garlic sauce is one of those things you want to pack up and take home (it’s that good). The other detail you won’t forget: they make Syrian coffee in the sand.
At the Brookside-School Lane Junction, Westlands. The only vegetarian pizza place I would actively recommend in Nairobi. The roasted garlic sauce is why I go. Don’t let the vegetarian-only menu put you off if you’re not vegetarian; the pizzas hold up on their own. Wood-fired, well-priced, worth the detour.
On the 18th floor of the Escada Building on Lantana Road, Westlands. Good views across the skyline, cocktails worth ordering, and a food menu where the salads stand out. Open from 6am, which also makes it work as a breakfast or co-working spot on quieter days.
On My List (I Have Not Been Yet)
EZO Restaurant at Stellato Mall, 2nd Floor, 42 Muthithi Road, Westlands is an Asian-inspired fine dining spot led by a Michelin-influenced Peruvian chef. Contemporary New-Japanese with Nikkei and pan-Asian influences. Several people whose food opinions I trust have flagged it as a strong date night. I’ll review it properly when I get there! View on Google Maps
Onza at Westgate is a Mediterranean-French fusion restaurant and bar that keeps coming up in date night recommendations. Open daily from noon. On my personal list; I’ll update this once I’ve been. View on Google Maps
A French Neobistro rooftop at The Mandrake in Westlands, with a 360-degree panoramic view of the city. Popular for date nights, happy hour, and group dinners. On the pricier side. I haven’t eaten here yet but have heard consistently good things about the view and the atmosphere. I’ll update when I do. Opens at 5pm Tuesday through Sunday.
Going Out
My clubbing days are behind me, so take this section as intel rather than a personal review. The names that keep coming up for a night out in Westlands:
Jekyll & Hyde is a moody, theatrically dark cocktail bar in a strip mall in Westlands. Known for inventive cocktails and a strong atmosphere. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 6pm. View on Google Maps
KODA Nairobi at Kenrail Towers on Ring Road is a serious two-room music venue with a Funktion-One sound system. More nightclub than bar. Thursdays to Saturdays only, from 9pm. View on Google Maps
11:11 also gets mentioned in the same conversations. I know less about this one; I’ll update as I hear more.
Coffee and Co-Working
A quick reference for working out of Westlands:
Coffee & Plant on General Mathenge Road is a plant-based cafe with both indoor and terrace seating. Strictly vegetarian and vegan menu. Good for a working morning or a lighter lunch. View on Google Maps
The Republic of Everyone at Bishan Plaza on Mpaka Road is a specialty coffee roastery with a strong East Africa sourcing story and very good baristas. The flagship cafe worth seeking out if you care about coffee. View on Google Maps
Knead Artisanal Bakery in Kanha Building, Westlands does excellent sourdough, pastries, and coffee. Solid co-working spot open daily from 8:30am. View on Google Maps
The Good Grain is a micro-bakery just off Waiyaki Way. A bit outside the main Westlands strip, but the bread is worth the drive and the space is good for a longer working session. They source their drip coffee from Hikuri Coffee. Open Monday to Saturday; closed Sundays. View on Google Maps
Connect Coffee has a location at Sanlam Towers on Waiyaki Way (near The Good Grain) and a second at The Riverfront on Chiromo Lane. Both are specialty roastery cafes. View on Google Maps
The Bottom Line
Westlands is where Nairobi’s food scene tests itself. Some of the places on this list won’t be here in a year. I’ll keep updating as I work through the ones still on my list.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best restaurant in Westlands, Nairobi?
beit é selam on Maua Close is one of the strongest options right now. Their lunch offer, one starter, one main, one dessert, and a drink for KES 3,650, is one of the better deals in the neighbourhood. About Thyme on Eldama Ravine Road is the long-standing reliable choice for a proper sit-down meal, operating since 2005.
Where can I get good Indian food in Westlands, Nairobi?
Open House Restaurant on Parklands Road (opposite The Mall) is consistently the best Indian restaurant in Nairobi. Expect to pay more than at a standard Indian restaurant; the quality reflects it.
What is the most affordable restaurant in Westlands for a family?
Hashmi Barbeque is a reliable choice for families who want good food without a large bill. Baladi Restaurant off Muridi Road is also excellent for shawarma at an accessible price point.
Are there good rooftop bars in Westlands, Nairobi?
270° Rooftop at the Escada Building on Lantana Road and Dijo at The Mandrake are both good options with views over the city. 270° Rooftop opens early and also works as a daytime co-working spot.
Where can I get good pizza in Westlands, Nairobi?
The Pizzeria at the Brookside-School Lane Junction is one of the best pizza options in Nairobi. It’s a vegetarian pizza place using a wood-fired oven, and the roasted garlic sauce is the standout.
What are good coffee shops in Westlands for working?
The Republic of Everyone (Mpaka Road), Coffee & Plant (General Mathenge Road), Knead Artisanal Bakery (Kanha Building), and The Good Grain (Waiyaki Way) are the main options in and around Westlands.
Is Westlands safe at night?
Westlands is one of Nairobi’s most active areas after dark and is generally considered safer than other parts of the city. Standard Nairobi precautions apply: use a trusted taxi or ride-hailing app rather than walking between venues late at night.
Most people find out the hard way that the Elephant Orphanage doesn’t take walk-ins anymore. You show up, kids excited, and the gate turns you away because you didn’t book. So before anything else: go to sheldrickwildlifetrust.org, book your slot, and get the confirmation email on your phone. Then we can talk about the rest of Karen.
Karen is a great family half-day in Nairobi, with two animal experiences within 5 km of each other that work for children of almost any age.
The Elephant Orphanage: The One That Requires a Plan
The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Nairobi Nursery is a rescue facility for orphaned elephants being rehabilitated for eventual release back into the wild. The public viewing window is 11am to noon, seven days a week except Christmas Day, and that’s the only hour there is: if you miss it (or if you’re late!), you miss it. It can take a while to get through the National Park entrance, so give yourself plenty of extra time before 11am so you’re not late. You’ll also want to get there early so you can snag a good spot right up at the front (and maybe be able to touch the baby elephants if they brush by you!)
How to book
Book directly at sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/nursery-visit. No more walk-ins (that, unfortunately, is a thing of the past), and you need a confirmed booking to get past the KWS Mbagathi Gate, so book at least a few days ahead since slots fill on weekends and school holidays.
There are some organized tour companies that offer hotel pick-up for out-of-town guests. Since you have to pay the Nairobi National Park entrance fee anyway, it might be worth just turning it into a safari adventure day and exploring the national park while you’re at it (you paid for it!).
For a Kenyan family of two adults and two school-age children, the total is around KES 8,000. It’s not a cheap everyday thing but it’s a great experience to do at least once.
What to expect
The viewing area is an open clearing where keepers bring out the youngest elephants first; they’re playful, loud, and they roll in the mud. You’re not supposed to reach out to touch them, but if they walk past you, you’re allowed to pet them.
The whole visit is about 45 minutes to an hour, including the ride from the KWS gate to the nursery. You can also “adopt” an elephant for a minimum contribution of US$50 per year. Read here for more details.
Practical checklist: Arrive at KWS Mbagathi Gate at least by 10:30am. Have your KWS payment receipt on your phone. Have your SWT booking confirmation ready. Bring cash for the nursery donation because the SWT doesn’t take cards.
The Giraffe Centre: The Easy, Affordable, Any-Day Option
If the Elephant Orphanage requires a plan, the Giraffe Centre requires almost nothing. You can walk in any day between 9am and 5pm (no booking needed), pay at the gate by card or M-Pesa (cash isn’t accepted), and you’re inside within minutes. There are third-party booking sites but it’s really not necessary, and you don’t need a guide since everything’s written out well. The main part of the experience is feeding the giraffes anyway!
What it costs (2026)
Resident adult: KES 400
Resident child (3-12 years): KES 200
Non-resident adult: KES 1,500
Non-resident child: KES 750
Under 3: Free
A Kenyan family of four pays KES 1,200.
What to expect
There is a raised wooden platform where you feed the Rothschild giraffes by hand. Every ticket includes a bowl of feeding pellets. The giraffes come in close, and their tongues are absolutely enormous! We’ve seen some folks who put the feeding pellets in their mouth and “kiss” the giraffes but that has never been of interest to us 🙂 Most kids are either thrilled or briefly terrified, then thrilled.
A hidden gem we like to do every time we’re out that way is the free 38-acre nature trail across the road. For families with older kids who like nature, it’s definitely worth doing; there’s a beautiful stream to explore and it’s quiet.
Plan for 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on if you do the walking trail.
Tip: The Giraffe Centre and the Elephant Orphanage work well together in a single morning. Do the orphanage from 11am to noon, then drive 10 minutes to the Giraffe Centre. We usually head for lunch at Tin Roof Langata or Cultiva after.
Karen Blixen Museum: For the Right Child at the Right Age
The Karen Blixen Museum is the colonial-era farm of the author of Out of Africa, now run by the National Museums of Kenya. Admission fees were updated in May 2026:
Kenyan adult: KES 550
Kenyan child: KES 300
Kenyan resident / Rest of Africa adult: KES 1200
Kenyan resident / Rest of Africa child: KES 800
Non-resident adult: KES 2200
Non-resident child (under 16 years): KES 1200
Honest take: this works well for children who can handle a slow guided walk through an old house and are interested in history or wildlife imagery. For younger children, you may spend more time outside than in the house, but there’s lots of green space to run around and you can do a short forested walk to see some of the old machinery from the coffee farming days. It’s a five-minute drive from the Giraffe Centre, so it’s easy to add if the kids still have energy.
Kazuri Beads: Worth a Stop If You Have the Time
Kazuri Beads runs free workshop tours at their Karen headquarters. You can watch artisans make ceramic beads by hand, which holds attention for longer than you’d expect. There is also an on-site coffee shop serving Spring Valley Coffee and pastries from Soul Sisters Bistro, plus a retail space where you can buy pieces directly.
For younger children, the workshop is engaging for about 20 minutes. For older kids who are into art or craft, the jewellery-making class (booked separately) is a genuinely good activity. The coffee situation makes it worth stopping for parents regardless.
Open Monday to Saturday.
Where to Eat in Karen
Karen has solid options for lunch or an early dinner after a morning of animals. A full guide to Karen restaurants is coming to this blog shortly.
For now, the short list: Tin Roof (there are two branches; the Langata one has a better playground and is closer to Giraffe Center); Cultiva has a relaxed outdoor setup that works well with children though they don’t have a playground. Their food and cocktails are delish! They get really busy so best to book in advance.
Getting to Karen: What to Know
Karen is about 12-15 km from central Nairobi, but the drive can take 30-40 minutes from Westlands or Kilimani depending on traffic. From Karen itself, the Giraffe Centre and Elephant Orphanage are a 5-10 minute drive apart.
Bolt or Uber works fine for both. If you’re driving, parking at both attractions is free.
The Honest Verdict
The Elephant Orphanage and the Giraffe Centre are two “must do at least once” with children in Nairobi. The Giraffe Centre is accessible and affordable (although, if your kids are in a Kenyan school, they’ll also most likely go with a school field trip at least once too :).
The combination of both in a single morning, followed by lunch in Karen, makes for a complete day out without having to drive halfway across the city.
Best for: Children of almost any age. The Elephant Orphanage works from around age 3 upward. The Giraffe Centre works even with toddlers.
What to skip: On a tight schedule or with very young children, leave the Karen Blixen Museum for another day.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to visit the Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi in 2026?
Kenyan residents pay two separate fees. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust nursery donation is KES 2,000 per adult and KES 500 per child, paid in cash on arrival. The KWS Nairobi National Park entry fee is KES 1,000 per adult and KES 500 per child, paid online in advance at kwspay.ecitizen.go.ke. A family of two adults and two children pays around KES 8,000 total.
Do you have to book the Elephant Orphanage in advance?
Yes. Walk-ins aren’t allowed. Book at sheldrickwildlifetrust.org. Have your booking confirmation ready at the KWS Mbagathi Gate. Book at least a few weeks ahead, especially during school holidays and weekends.
How much does the Giraffe Centre cost for Kenyan residents in 2026?
KES 400 per resident adult and KES 200 per resident child aged 3-12. Children under 3 are free. Cash isn’t accepted; pay by card or M-Pesa at the gate. The centre is open daily from 9am to 5pm, no advance booking required.
Can you visit both the Elephant Orphanage and the Giraffe Centre in one day?
Yes. The orphanage runs from 11am to noon. The Giraffe Centre is about 10 minutes away and open until 5pm. Visit the orphanage first, then go straight to the Giraffe Centre. Both fit easily into a single morning.
How much does the Karen Blixen Museum cost in 2026?
KES 550 for Kenyan adults and KES 300 for children, as of the revised National Museums of Kenya fees effective May 7, 2026.
Is a day in Karen worth the drive from central Nairobi?
Yes. Plan the morning around the 11am Elephant Orphanage slot, add the Giraffe Centre immediately after, and have lunch in Karen. You’ll be back home by early afternoon with a full day behind you.
In 2010, I told my husband that shave ice was a viable business in Nairobi. He was skeptical and asked reasonable questions. I just also happened to be right. 😛
16 years later, Hapa Shave Ice is open in Lavington and Nyali. Our kids have watched us build it from scratch: the early mornings, the syrup-making, and the floor mopping. I love that they have been watching us try to make entrepreneurship work and I hope they will internalize that if you want something bad enough, you can make it happen.
I started this blog for the same reason. The thing I wanted did not exist, so I made it.
There isn’t an updated guide to family life in Nairobi written for families who actually live here. Yes we all know and love Karura forest. But you can’t go there every weekend. What else is there to do? The content online that exists is aimed at tourists or people who need the city explained to them. That knowledge has been living in WhatsApp DMs for years but I think it belongs somewhere more findable.
Here is what you will find
School holiday guides with KES prices
Family road trips we have actually done
Restaurants we keep going back to
Recipes that work with what you can buy locally
A guide to getting Kenyan citizenship, which I have been meaning to write for years
I grew up in Honolulu and have called Nairobi home since 2010. I have two kids in school, a shave ice shop in Lavington and one in Nyali, and the blog reflects all of it.
